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Chungking Mansions 重慶大廈
A 17-storey Tsim Sha Tsui landmark crammed with South Asian canteens, guesthouses, sari shops and money changers.
Its hidden curry houses serve some of Hong Kong's most authentic - and affordable - Indian, Pakistani and Nepali food, immortalised in Wong Kar-wai's Chungking Express.
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Head upstairs to a family-run mess hall for mutton curry, garlic naan and sweet masala chai.