One of Hong Kong's great no-frills seafood rituals: buy the day's catch still swimming in the wet market downstairs, carry it up to the cooked-food centre and have stalls like Yiu Kee, Pak Kee and Chu Kee wok-fry it to order.

Loud, communal and gloriously unglamorous, it's a local institution on Ap Lei Chau's harbourfront where freshness is measured in minutes.